Friday, November 10, 2006

Day 11 - Italiano-Chileno (finally updated!)

It dawned on us that it might be helpful to see a bit of a map of where this was all taking place.
A map of Punta Arenas, Puerto Natales and Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine:


A map of the "W" (in red) within the park:



Breaking down camp is never a fun thing to do. But when you've just gotten spectacular views on a dayhike and you know that there are plenty more to come as soon as you get moving again, at least there is a good motivation to do so.

More to come...
So, with the sun still climbing over the mountainside, we took down the tent, jammed everything in our packs, and hit the trail again. Our plan was to push on to Refugio Los Cuernos for a big breakfast stop. We wanted to hold off, because we had a lot of ground to cover for the day, and the refugios are a source of free hot water (perfect for making instant oatmeal and coffee, for instance).

As we got out of the Italiano trees, we were again stunned by the beauty and color surrounding us on all sides. Bluish-gray Lago Nordenskjold on our right, dense green hills across the lake, and some brilliantly red-orange flowers that were in full bloom on many of the bushes lining the trails. We were also again stunned by the tangible power of the wind, as it pushed us around on (and a couple times off) the trail.

Although the CONAF map listed the time as 2.5 hours between Italiano and Cuernos, we covered it in exactly 2 hours. This seemed to be a bit of a trend during our hiking times, not because we were moving particularly fast, but more because we were moving quite steadily, plodding up and down the shale scrapple inclines, stomping across the trickling stram bed, and forging through the high (but still colorful) bushes. The ol´Tortoise And The Hare effect, in an amazing environment.

Anyway, after the two hours of hiking, our simple breakfast turned into The Best Instant Oatmeal Ever, paired with The Most Delicious Hot Cocoa Ever. We´d been famished, but were soon (too?) full. Backpack hip-belts do not really comfortably fit over full bellies.

Pictures:

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555473996ONnqoF


Stepping up to the line of scrimmage with just 4 hours of hiking left to do to get to La Hosteria Las Torres, we called an audible. We were going to push on to Campamento Chileno, another hour closer to our goal for the next day, the Mirador Las Torres. It was perhaps a bit foolish, but we were full of endorphines and Maple Brown Sugar flavoring.

In every other account we´d seen of the W, the four hours between Cuernos and Hostería Las Torres gets very little attention. We feel that this leg has been snubbed. The scenery remains gorgeous (though perhaps nothing particularly novel by this point). You get to cover noticable distance, as you round a mountain to approach a new valley. And you pass through a variety of different environments (boulder-laden streams, high mountain brush, more crumbly rock inclines, boggy marshland). All in all, spectacular, and very sparsely populated by other hikers.

The leg that should perhaps receive more attention in the guide books is the Hostería-Chileno leg. We´d decided to do it somewhat on a whim, not entirely informed, due to some ambiguities on the map. By the time we were done, though, we were physically broken.

Looking somewhat closer on the better map, it became clear that we´d gained roughly 600 meters of elevation. Estimaiting a little bit for the short downhill segments (that were devilishly sprinkled in just so they could add more uphill trail), and it can be said that we hiked the elevation equivalent of climbing to the top of Sears Tower, back down to the ground floor, and then to the top again.

To be fair, and say a few nice words, it was beautiful. We were climbing up the vally of the Río Paine, with rough stone cliffs on one side, and loose glacial deposits lining the trail-side. The river was tumbling far below over giant boulders that had rolled down the hill countless years ago.

But in honesty, we weren´t saying any nice words at the time. What words we could hear from each other over the howling wind were not fit for reproduction, even on the lawless wilds of the Internet. Every stop only made it harder to start again, as our muscles tightened up in the cold wind. The trail became nearly all loose stone, with at least a 45 degree incline on either side (leading down to the aforementioned valley several hundred feet below). And for the first time all trip, both Julie and I felt blisters coming on in our boots.

It was only Julie´s robotic instincts and jogging all of the downhills (don´t forget that we were wearing 30-plus pound packs) that brought us to a sign that told us we had 30 minutes of hiking to do. There were literally tears of joy shed (you, the reader, can guess whose they were). We´d thought we had at least an hour remaining.

Shortly after that, we caught sight of the Refugio, nestled amongst some trees on the opposite side of the valley. Our pulses and strides quickened, and before too long we were crossing a rickety bridge over the river.

As a general note of interest, there are many bridges in Torres Del Paine, crossing a variety of streams and rivers. They are all unique. Sometimes each board within a bridge is unique, making the whole bridge seem as though it were constructed by a handful of 10-year-old kids. Sometimes they even have a few broken boards. But they all serve their purpose well. Bottom line, though, is that they work, and this one over the Rio Paine seemed heaven-sent at the time.

We found the most-sheltered spot we could amongst the trees to set up the tent. After hauling up some rocks from the river to hold down the tent stakes, we were convinced that we wouldn´t get blown away in the night.

One hot shower, one alternating hot and freezing cold shower (mine), and some delicious instant mashed potatoes and salame later, and we were ready for bed.

Actually, not quite ready. We decided to celebrate the day by ordering a bottle of wine from the refugio. We enjoyed the warmth from it, and the refugio fireplace before heading back to our windy tent for a night of much-needed sleep.

Pictures:

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555472915xqmuAk

Thursday, November 09, 2006

Day 11 dayhike - Italiano-Mirador Rio Frances

Before we fell asleep the previous night, we´d made a bold decision. Rather than have the second day be fairly light (stopping to camp at Cuernos), we decided to tack on an extra 4 hours of hiking to try to shorten the time in the park, and have an extra day in Punta Arenas. This meant that we´d be doing a day hike up the middle of the W, then back to Italiano and east to Refugio Las Torres.

When we woke up, and rolled out of our sleeping bags, we weren´t sure that was such a good idea. Stiff backs, sore legs, feet still a bit tired. But we downed some water and a granola bar, and started uphill toward a mirador roughly 2/3 of the way to Campamento Britanico. In hindsight, this may have been my favorite hike in the park.

The hike goes fairly steeply up the valley of the Rio Frances. The distance we covered was split fairly evenly between packed forest dirt/roots, loose gravel stream beds, and rocky boulder navigating. After a few minutes we began to be able to see the sights. Down and to the left was the river. Up and to the left was a glacial ice bed perched on top of dark mountains. Over the shoulder to the left was Lago Nordskroldkjflivlk (spelling?) Nordenskjold and a view of the opposite shore (roughly where we´d been driving in the bus the day before). Up and to the right were first the beautiful two-toned Cuernos (I was informed by Julie that the two tones arise from the volcanic composition of the bottom half, and the sedimentary composition of the top) and later the west side of the Torres del Paine (awesome).

With just light dayhike material, we made it up to the lookout point in under an hour, while the sun was still climbing over the hillside. Admiring the view for a few minutes, and taking a few snapshots at the same time, we were there long enough to first hear and then see a large chunk of snow and ice start an avalanche down the icy mountainside. Pretty powerful.

With our hunger growing, though, and knowing that we had a lot of hiking in front of us, we started back down the hill to break camp and get moving. I´ll not be forgetting the views anytime soon.

Pictures up now:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555452286ynMuKZ

Wednesday, November 08, 2006

Day 10 (more) - Beginning the W at Pehoe

Consulting Bill and the map, we`d come up with what we thought was a fairly comprehensive, but doable trip within the park. The plan was to start at Refugio Pehoe, and by doing a handful of day hikes, we´d hit all points of the W, ending with an exit from Hosterìa Las Torres.

After reconfiguring for dayhike lightness and speed, we dropped what was left of our packs on the porch outside Refugio Pehoe. While we may have left them a little bit longer than most, we found that at refugios throughout the park, people routinely leave their packs. Our goal was to buck the wind and to get up to see Glacier Grey, a estimated 2 hours up from Pehoe.

Once among some trees, the wind was much less of an issue, and we found ourselves getting some sun. The lack of ozone (thanks fossil fuels!) makes for some powerful sun, so we were quickly stripping off layers and reapplying sunscreen. Without our full packs, we were making very good time, and before too long we had our first view of glacial icebergs on Lago Grey.

Lago Grey is not nearly so brilliantly blue as Lago Pehoe, but the color was certainly unique, and the winterfresh-blue icebergs were breathtaking in contrast. A few more windy hills, gusts of wind, and mistakes following the main trail (in general, trails will diverge frequently, but *usally* meet up again) and we were treated with a view overlooking the north end of Lago Grey. Wow, I thought, the sun really is playing interestingly with the colors of the lake up there.

Julie, though, having some glacial experience, pointed out that the interesting colors and textures was the glacier. In a few more steps, we could see where the water met the ice. It´s just as jagged, monstrous, and blue as any craggly glacier I´ve seen depicted in any movie. Hopefully the pictures do it some justice...

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555434358AHAZGR

We`d been hoping for a nice lunch break overlooking the glacier, but the wind was too much. After pausing for a few pictures at the mirador overlooking the glacier (a rocky point to the left of the trail), we started to head down the hill. An aside of possible interest to others: by thirdhand information, the mirador that is roughly halfway up to the Refugio Grey offers the best look at the glacier until the refugio itself.

Salame, swiss cheese, pita bread, peanuts and raisins. A classic trail lunch powered us up for the downhill jet. Again, we surprised ourselves by how quick we covered ground. The downhill views were just as spectacular, looking out over Lago Pehoe. Although we were still being blown around a bit, the sun was shining. We counted ourselves lucky everytime a few raindrops would hit us but amount to nothing more...

We got back to the refugio at Pehoe and geared up for the actual hiking. We´d not done a full-trip since the Trinity Alps in August, and we already had a few kilometers under our belts for the day, so we weren´t too sure how well we´d fare. But our goal for the evening was Campamento Italiano, supposedly 2 1/2 hours away. Sun was shining, wind was blowing, and feet were hurting. Oh, and the INCREDIBLY HUGE and stark peaks of the Cuernos and yes, Las Torres were visible nearly the whole time. The latter was especially exciting, after hearing how Morgan, Becky, and Terri had seen nothing but snow and rain of the Torres after completing a grueling day hike just the day before. As the trail slowly passed beneath our feet, we were again thankful for the great weather we were having.

Being thankful won´t stop you from being tired, though, and we were more than ready for a rest by the time we reached our destination.

In addition to the great views we´d been getting, Italiano was immediately preceded by a couple-friendly bridge (no more than two at a time!). We found a fairly sheltered spot for the tent among the trees. Relative to Pehoe, the campground is very sheltered, with tall (God, I´m blanking on the name right now, but it includes an ñ) trees bending in the wind and dispersing its force. Despite this, we were still very glad to know that the tent we´d borrowed (thanks Ethan and Margie!) was anchored at six major points, and had a fairly low profile. There would be no gusts of wind bringing the tent walls down on us.

Italiano is one of the free campgrounds in the park, so we splurged for dinner. Big time. Chicken flavored ramen.

To give you some idea of the price inflation near the park, we paid nearly $.60 cents per ramen brick in Puerto Natales, still a bargain compared with the $4 (regular-sized) chocolate bar at the refugio store in the park.

Anyway, the ramen was sooooo good. Seriously. We discussed a bit how it had been a few years since either one of us had eaten any ramen, but I doubt it was this long absence from our menus that made it so delicious. Served with some peanuts on the side for protein, accompanied by some delicious pink lemonade crystal light, and followed by a delicious dessert of mostly crushed and partially stale sugar cookies it was a we-deserved feast.

We were drained from a long day of riding, hiking, and packing. So, despite the gusting wind tearing through the trees (more than audible despite using earplugs -- which we recommend packing for a number of reasons), we hit the hay around 10pm. In contrast to our fears about waking up freezing cold, or having to sleep in every layer we´d brought, our thermarests and sleeping bags (one of each again borrowed from Ethan and Margie, but available for rent at refugios also) kept us plenty warm. Too warm, really.

Pics from the Pehoe-Italiano leg:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555434068OEWYTW


But one incredible day was over (great places, people, and weather), and we were excited for the next...

Distance hiked: 21 km (13 miles)
Time hiked: 5 hours
Injuries sustained: sore feet

Day 10 - To Torres del Paine!

At this point, many of you may be wondering why all the writing? Yes, it takes a lot of typing, and a few thousand Chilean pesos spent at internet cafès to keep this updated, but in addition to keeping everyone informed about our well-being, we wanted to have a full log of the trip for our own keeping. So, apologies for any wordiness or esoteric details...but on with the show.

For the last week, we´ve been going without a proper alarm clock. And since my phone battery finally died, we had to rely on some tricky TV programming to get an alarm set that would go off to get this day started.

Although really, we were both so excited that we were up before the alarm. With the bus scheduled to pick us up at 7am to head into the park, we got an early start and did some last minute repacking of our packs.

The `hostel` (not really a hostel if we have our own bedroom and bathroom is it?)that we stayed at provided breakfast as part of the deal, so we were sure to have some full bellies when we set out. Omelettes, cereal, yogurt, bread, jam, and Nescafe con leche (Nestle has done an amazing job convincing nearly all of Chile that Nescafe is superior to regular coffee).

The Via Paine bus (round trip fare 7500 Chilean Pesos each for anyone interested in planning) picked us up at our door at about 7:20. Overnight it had rained (a lot), which, we were assured, was an improvement over the previous windstorms that had knocked out the satellite uplink for the internet for the entire town. Coupled with the `do you have enough gear?` comments of nearly everyone we talked to before the trip, we had our doubts about how well we would be able to handle the trip. One of the few positive voices immediately prior to heading out was Bill, a very helpful and friendly former Oregonian who works at (owns?) the hostel/store (Erratic Rock I)that rented us the stove and gloves.

Anyway, it was still raining and blowing hard when we got on the bus to start the roughly 2 hour ride to the entrance of Parque Nacionlal Torres del Paine. And it continued raining and blowing hard for at least the first hour of the trip, after which it at least became sporadic. On the plus side, we were treated to some amazing rainbows (Julie is working on uploading the pictures as I type this).

After a stop at a remote gift shop that must have some amazing commission deal cut with all of the bus lines that ferry passengers between Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine, we began to be treated to some mountain scenery. Absolutely amazing.

We were also treated to a remarkable display of wildlife. The guidebooks had mentioned a few animals to keep a look out for, but thus far, we´d really only seen Sheep and their baby lambs, and cows with their calves (all very cute, but not very wild). Over the last hour, among others, we saw Ñandùs (a type of patagonian ostrich), many herds of guanacos (best thought of a cross between a deer and a llama), and huge condòrs. Much more than we´d been expecting.

It is also worth noting that I edged out Julie in the spot the wildlife game...

Pictures at:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555431306ngIQEq

I may as well just say now that although we took a lot of pictures, no amount of megapixels of resolution can possibly convey what we experienced. The whole park was absolutely stunning.

At Laguna Amarga, the bus stopped to let us all pay the requisite park entrance fee (and to see the peaks from a distance!). Some passengers exited there, to catch a shuttle to the East end of the ´W`, but we were starting things from the opposite direction. The bus then traveled more or less east-to-west to Pudeto, an outpost on Lago Pehoe (say `pay-oh-ay`). As we pulled up, a few people waved in our direction. Lo and behold, it was Morgan, Becky, and Terri, from UCSF. We´d known that they were heading to Torres del Paine also, but we were pretty sure our plans were non-overlapping. It was a pleasant surprise that they were not. So we were reunited at Lago Pehoe, a glacial lake with an amazing sky blue color.

Laguna Amarga to Pehoe:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555433075zirZGU

But of more immediate concern when we stepped off the bus was the whipping winds. Yeouch! Estimated gusts of 80 km/h (50 mph) were picking up the gravelly sand off the beach and pelting all of the newcomers. Rather than wait the one hour that we had to wait for the catamaran ferry to head to the trailhead, we took the quick hike to a waterfall nearby. During that time, we met Lynn (spelling?), who, after quitting her job in Chicago, has spent the last 6 months learning spanish and traveling in South America. wow.

Wow also for the waterfalls, and the view of the parks famous peaks that we were given at the lookout point. We were literally blown away.

No, I mean that. As we were standing up to have our picture taken, a gust of wind knocked all three of us over. Haunting memories of sleeping in a wind battered tent were coming back to me...

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555433760TDQhxl

We got on the catamaran with no difficulty and set out for the opposite shore. Despite the wind, whitecaps, and clouds in a few different directions, the crew was completely unfazed. Nescafè or hot cocoa were available for the passengers to warm the chilled bones that had been out in the wind.

Still, no amount of wind or could dampen the mood after seeing the amazing views laid out over the sky blue waters(though a few waves splashing over the bow did dampen us).

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555433764OGHYHs

As we made landfall around 1:00pm, we were anxious to get the hiking started.

Sunday, November 05, 2006

Day 9- Vamos al sur (updated)

We got a mighty early start this morning. The shuttle picked us up at the apartment at 6, and we spent the next hour or so traversing the streets of Santiago to pick up another passenger before heading to the airport.

The Santiago airport was again very impressive. Analogous to the subway system here and at home, it was much cleaner, friendlier, and more efficient. The only downfall was that we had an 'early' Sunday flight, so Dunkin Donuts wasn´t open when we first arrived (although the music and sunglasses stores were...)

On the four hour flight (including a stop-over in Puerto Montt), we were given complimentary breakfast and lunch. LANChile should operate in the US, we´d fly them everytime.

On the second half of the flight, we chatted with the man sitting next to us, who was a resident of Punta Arenas and gave us great advice on restaurants and hostels for during our stay. More importantly, he gave us his contact information and told us to call for any reason during our time here (just in case!).

We then checked our email and such in an internet cafe in Punta arenas. Within the first 10 minutes of our time in Punta arenas, we experienced extreme winds, hail, rain, and bright sunshine. They told us to expect all four seasons in one day- and boy were they right!

After checking our email we hopped on Bus Sur to head to Puerto Natales for the night. On the way we traveled along the Magellan Strait, where most of the scenery was windblown from the weather. As we got further along, however, the landscape became much more interesting, and we were fortunate enough to see baby lambs, cows and horses, nandus (which are basically ostriches), and pink flamingos (which are actually naturally found in Chile!).

When we arrived in Puerto Natales, we checked into our hostel, which was fantastic. We had a really nice room, and the owners were really sweet. After dropping off our things, we head out into town, rented a stove and gloves for the trek, ate some dinner and went back to rest up for the big adventures to come.

A little bit more about dinner... We ate at a restaurant recommended by Bill, Picador de Carlitos. Being as it is still the season for Centolla (king crab), we followed the advice of the waitress and ordered a king crab plate ´con otros mariscos´. We weren´t exactly sure what types of seafood that meant, but decided to give it a shot anyway. Since we are only very recent seafood converts, we were a little hesitant, but found the king crab to be delicious, and the mysterious `locos´ to be particularly delicious. The waitress could not translate though, and Bill only could guess at what they were. Later, seeing a sign for another restaurant that displayed both the spanish and english words for some dishes did we discover that they were (likely) abalone. Highly recommended.

A few pictures from Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555431301goEkUb