Sunday, November 26, 2006

Day 18 - The Long Voyage Home





After a fairly good night of sleep (interrupted only by the sound of waves crashing on the beach, and at one point, the sounds of Jorge chasing off a couple of other dogs), we woke up refreshed and relaxed. We only had a couple hours of driving left to get back to Santiago, and our flight did not leave until 10pm. So, we were again going to take our time, following the coast through small towns.

We enjoyed a small breakfast at our nice garden picnic table, again attended to by our good doggie friend Jorge. He was again more interested in any attention that we'd give him than any food we'd offer. It was clear that he was looking for a nice home to be a part of.

Image hosted by Webshots.com

This point was made crystal clear by his reaction when he saw us packing our bags. His face dropped, and he started rubbing against Julie as if he were an overfriendly cat. When we loaded the bags in the car, he started some desperate begging, last-minute pleas to take him with us. We briefly considered how we could get him through customs, but decided that in this age of national security he probably didn't stand much of a chance. So, we reluctantly jumped in the car, readying ourselves to leave.

And then he jumped in the car, too!

Image hosted by Webshots.com

As sad as we were to have to leave him behind, now we had to actively get rid of him. We decided to first have one more run with him on the beach. So we drove a few hundred yards down the road to the public beach, and jumped out, hoping he'd again stay by our sides, and follow us out onto the sand.

He did, and after he ran off to say hi to one of his dog buddies from the previous night, we ran and jumped back in the car. He caught up to us before we got in, and we had to do a pull a little trickery to get in and the doors closed before he could follow us.

We held back emotions as we pulled away. True to his loyal spirit, he chased the car with all of his speed for at least 100 yards down the road before finally giving up. Jorge was a good dog.

We drove on, passing through a few more coastal towns that confirmed we'd found an excellent choice for our last night. We'd initially been considering Horcon, which was recommended on a website as a beautiful, sleepy, fishing village. It was nice, but lacked (at least from what we saw) the same beachfront options that we'd had.

Shortly thereafter, we arrived at the north end of Vina del Mar, which we had visited a couple weeks earlier with the whole group. It really is a beautiful city, and the rocky shores right by the road on the north end of the city were amazing.

After a stop for some real coffee at the same cafe that we'd rested at following our daytrip to Vina, we drove on. We had plans to stop at one more place in Valparaiso, a local artisans market. Nearing the supposed location (as designated in the Lonely Planet book -- which we were beginning to view with a fair amount of skepticism), we pulled up for Chilean metered parking.

No parking meters required. Again, the abundance of labor was clear, as two men helped us to document our arrival time, and confirmed the price of parking. Despite the stated similarities between Valparaiso and San Francisco, the 300 pesos per hour that we paid is far less than a downtown San Francisco parking meter.

We finally found the market, and left only after making a purchase that would test our turista mettle on the return flight. We bought a large piggy bank. Handmade of glazed ceramic, with a body the size of a soccer ball, and sure to aggravate fellow passengers fighting for overhead compartment space. But he was ridiculously cute, and given the name Jorge in honor of our recently abandoned friend.

After a few Coquimbo-like maneuvers dodging pedestrians we made it out of Valparaiso, cruising on the homestretch toward Santiago.

We made it back into town and back to Pablo's apartment, taking a detour to hit the artisan's market at Las Dominicas. I swear, this will be the last mention of artisan's markets. We'd wanted to buy some candies for our labs (people are always bringing back sweets or other delicacies from their various travels).

We repacked our bags, and bought one last authentic Chilean meal before our flight home. Subway - Eat Fresh. We learned that they call the orange cheese at Subway in Chile 'cheddar' instead of 'american'. Yes, sadly, we succumbed to our desires for something from home, and we even guiltily sipped down another sin after stopping at Starbucks. Never underestimate the allure of familiarity (or is it the power of marketing...)

You know how I said to trust your navigator a few posts back? Yeah, you really should. A few bungled directions resulted in us getting to the airport just an hour and a half before departure. Luckily, the car return was a snap:
Them: Tienen problemas?
Us: No, no problemas. (believe it or not, we'd been told after getting the tire fixed at the La Serena Budget rent a car to tell them that everything was fine)
Them: Esta bien.

We wrestled our giant bags up to the check-in desk. We sweated through departing customs (Julie had somehow lost a form which was -- despite the concerning words of the Delta agent -- completely dispensible). We stumbled through the Duty-Free area. We filed on to the plane and delicately balanced the new Jorge above us. And then we collapsed in our seats. We were wiped out.

All in all, it was an amazing trip. We'd been extremely fortunate with the weather, and all plans and accomodations had worked out quite well.

If anyone were to ask what we could have done differently to make it a better trip, there is only one thing that I can think of:
We would not have watched the in-flight movie on the return flight. Truly. Avoid "My Super Ex-girlfriend" at all costs.

Sunday, November 19, 2006

Day 17 - Seeing The Sights





Image hosted by Webshots.com

From La Serena back to Santiago is really only about a 5 hour drive, if you're avoiding scenic vistas and tourist traps, or flat tires on windy mountain roads. Clearly we didn't avoid the latter on the way north, and it was our goal to fully embrace the former on the way south.

Having consulted the Lonely Planet guidebook (though with a bit more caution following the Hurtado near-disaster), and talking with Victor some about other nearby things to do (he, in addition to leading tours of Isla Damas on the weekends is a student majoring in Tourism in La Serena), we had a few of ideas of things to see. After a couple of quick stops to walk around the Plaza de Armas, and to get our flat tire repaired (30 minutes and US$4!), we were on our sight-seeing way.

Image hosted by Webshots.com

Our first stop was in Coquimbo, the city just south of La Serena. But really, it was visible from La Serena. Victor had recommended it with some reservation, but we wanted to check it out for ourselves. It was, as you likely know if you are expert in extraordinarily large religious monuments, the Cruz del Tercero Milenio (Cross of the third millenium). And if you recognize the name, you may also know that it is the largest religious monument in the world.

Image hosted by Webshots.com

It is also very, very creepy. Not because of any qualms with Christianity's goodwill being hijacked for less than noble purposes recently. I'd like to say that it was a marvel of engineering, and a spectacular monument, but there is little that seems majestic about a concrete cross towering 98 meters over some of the most ramshackle slums we'd seen in Chile. There was some kind of strange disconnect there. Maybe I'm just not accustomed to religious monuments with gift shops selling t-shirts, buttons, and ashtrays.

Or maybe it's just the two hours that we spent trying to get out of Coquimbo that spoiled the sight of the cross for me. We'd decided to wait until after getting out of Coquimbo to stop for lunch (Lonely Planet had a recommendation for us), so we were short on energy to deal with the maddening crowds of people rushing across the downtown streets. Somehow, the only ways that we kept attempting to get back to the highway led us past the cross again and again (though we did come across the cool Fuerte Coquimbo).

Image hosted by Webshots.com

Eventually, though, the one way streets, clutch-smoking hills, and detours relented and we did get back on the highway south. Another 40 kilometers or so, and we'd reached Guanaqueros, our destination for lunch. After multiple meals over the last few days involving seafood, we were both looking forward to some land-based entrees. The name was something like El Pequeno Restaurant, and despite its misleading name (it was quite large and spacious), it did not let us down. Julie had the Chilean staple Carne Mechada, and I had the delicous Pollo Asado. Very, very satisfying. We were happy and full, and got back on the road.

Our next stop on the Tour of Small Towns Between La Serena and Santiago was Tongoy, a small town that was supposed to feature a great artisan's market. Trouble is, Lonely Planet neglected to tell us that it was an artisan's market half of the days of the week, and a fruit market on the remaing half. So, we got to see the last few minutes of the fruit market, which was probably more (pardon me) fruitful than more shopping for knick knacks. We did get to sample some unknow fruit which was very tasty.

Our goal for the night was to find a fitting end for our trip in Chile. Ideally, we were thinking beachfront cabaña, but luxurious hotel or unique bed and breakfast were also options. In order to cut down the amount of driving that we'd need to do on the day of our flight out of the country, we chose to cover a bit more ground, and stay somewhere between Los Vilos and Viña Del Mar.

Driving along the coast reminded me a lot of the Pacific Coast Highway. And Zapallar is the more wooded Malibu of the Chilean coast. Gorgeous mansions tucked between trees overlooking magnificently crashing waves on rocky shores. It was stunning, and presumably way out of our price range for the night (though we couldn't find any hotels to say for sure).

A couple of towns farther down, our dreams came true. We pulled into Maitencillo, a town with a myriad of hotel and cabaña options. We stopped to look at a few before seeing one that looked perfect. We pulled the car into the thatch-covered garage and stepped out to take a look. Opening the creaky gate we stepped into the perfect garden facing out to the beach. Not seeing anyone around, and fearing any guard animals, we quietly peeked into the cabins, before spotting a gardener at the corner of the yard.

The gardener turned out to also be the owner, and after a surprisingly short registration process (just write your name in the notebook!) we had an amazing room for the night. Or rather, we had an amazing kitchen, living room, bathroom and two(!) bedrooms.

Shelter arranged, we set out to get some food for the night. Amazingly, we were again able to get exactly what we were looking for. The local supermarket (three short aisles) had everything we needed -- wine, salame, cheese, and crackers. We went back to the cabin to watch the sunset, enjoy our dinner, and savor our last night in Chile.

Image hosted by Webshots.com

During dinner we had the good fortune of meeting a kind and loyal soul. Jorge.

At first, we assumed that Jorge (say 'hor-hay') was like any other stray dog, only interested in our food (and scaring off the owner's cat). But the salame that we tossed him did not interest him nearly as much as the few pets that we gave him after dinner. A walk down the beach solidified the relationship, as he took off chasing birds and barked at other dogs, then returned to loyally stroll with us.

As we snuggled into bed, we reflected on the amazing past few weeks, safe and sound, knowing that Jorge was sleeping on the stoop protecting our door.

La Serena pictures:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555605349LcAlUk

Coquimbo pictures:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555606214pOZVYe

Cabin pictures:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555605626pOVNxB

Day 16 continued - The Islands

Better late than never, we were quite excited to be finally getting on a boat heading out to Isla Choros and Isla Damas. And with regards to the weather, it was better late than early. While the morning had been quite gray and overcast, the sun had since broken through the clouds.

Image hosted by Webshots.com

All in all, there were 15 (safe, lifejacket-wearing) passengers on the 25' wooden boat heading out to the island. Lacking the motor power to really get up on plane, we were splashing through the chop, our island destination growing larger by the minute. Although the air was warm, the breeze and water were fairly cool, and we were glad when they hauled out a sheet of weatherproof plastic to help keep us dry.

During the voyage out, our guides -- now two fisherman operating the boat, plus Victor -- talked a little bit about the islands, a little more about the locos, and brought out a few starfish picked off the bottom of the sound. Unfortunately, between the puttering of the boat motor, and the motorboat pace of their spanish syllables, we didn't catch much of their speech. We were still just thrilled to be on a boat, heading to where we wanted to be.

Pulling up to the first island, Isla Choros, was something like being gradually brought closer and closer, and eventually being stuck right in the middle of the coolest zoo exhibit you've ever seen. One rocky bluffs on either side of the boat were dozens of sea lions! One, el macho (the alpha-male) clearly towered over all the others (mostly hembres -- females), with a head the size of a grand-prize winning pumpkin. This thing was huge.

El Macho:
Image hosted by Webshots.com

Mostly, they behaved fairly similar to their Pier 39-inhabiting brethren that we see in San Francisco, but they were soooo close. No binoculars required here. There were multiple ages and sizes, and when they barked, you could practically smell their fish breath (and you could certainly see bloody fish remnants in a few of their mouths).

On bluffs above the sea lions (or sea wolves, if you take the direct translation from spanish), were hundreds of nesting boobies. Complete with their beady eyes, seemingly overflexible necks, and blue/gray feet, the watched over us as we motored into and then out of the rocky cove.

Backtracking a bit, but much closer to the shoreline, we caught sight of some black and white creatures scrambling along the shoreline. Pinguinos!

We got our first sights of some of Humboldt's Penguins along the low rocks of the island. Humboldt's Penguins are some of the northernmost penguins, found farther north of Magellan's Penguins that we'd seen in Punta Arenas. Despite the human preference for shellfish in the region (or at least the season), Humboldt's Penguins prefer the schools of fish that hang out in the currents that swirl around the islands.

Moving a bit farther down the shoreline, our guides began pointing out penguins high on rocky bluffs and standing along gravelly trails. Penguins can climb! And climb quite well, considering how unadapted they seem for land. At a couple times, we saw them scrambling, hopping, flopping and bouncing up the loose rocks and boulders on the face of the island. Now that is cute.

Jumping back to my previous zoo analogy, Isla Choros looks like the most perfect rocky island replica you've ever seen. Craggy bluffs, archways, outcropping islands. It was fantastic.

Before moving on to Isla Damas, we were treated with a few more documentary-perfect natural moments: A juvenile sea lion jumped in the water to chase the boat (only to receive a harsh barking scolding from its mother), we pulled into a natural archway bound by many hundreds of boobies and containing many hundreds of a local type of rock bass, and we saw a jelly fish cruising alongside a bed of kelp.

Image hosted by Webshots.comImage hosted by Webshots.comImage hosted by Webshots.com

Isla Choros Pictures:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555610380rtRVet


The wildlife of Isla Choros was matched in splendor by starkness of Isla Damas. People are allowed in small numbers onto the island of Isla Damas (to restrict these numbers is the reason that you must register with CONAF -- the park service -- before heading out on a boat). So we pulled up to the pier in perhaps the most beautiful setting that I'd ever seen. The waters , rimmed by a crystalline white beach, were fairly shallow, with remarkable clarity, and in the afternoon sun, reflected a brilliant blue.

We got off the boat, dropped our lifevests, and followed Victor and the group around for a quick tour of the island. Despite its tropical-looking waters around it, the island itself is quite desolate. Even when up in the mountains just east of Vicuna, we didn't see nearly as many different types of cactus (maybe our eyes were too narrowly focused on the rocky road...).

Image hosted by Webshots.comImage hosted by Webshots.comImage hosted by Webshots.com

A hike to the highest point on the island, which is also home to the lighthouse, gave us another spectacular 360 degrees of views.

A few of those degrees:
Image hosted by Webshots.com Image hosted by Webshots.com

Plus a few others:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555610259IgnccC

Fully satisfied after an incredible day of socializing, scenery, and sun, we drove back to La Serena.

Still quite full of delicious seafood from lunch, we opted for a light dinner from a nearby cafe. And still full of amazing sea sights from the afternoon, we decided to skip a trip up to the mountain observatories and instead enjoy a relaxing night.

Thursday, November 16, 2006

Day 16 - Locos!

Image hosted by Webshots.com

Part of the reason that we'd needed to get money out of the ATM the night before was to pay for our day tour to Isla Damas and Isla Choros. "Hostal Jofre", in addition to providing cheap (but poorly appointed) rooms and hamburger buns for breakfast, arranges tours to some of the attractions near to La Serena.

Lacking the mental capacity when we arrived in town to want to think about planning it ourselves, we'd tried to book the day tour to Isla Damas through Jofre, which we needed some extra cash to pay for. As it turns out, though, the tour was cancelled, because the boat that was to be used was not available the next day. Why?

Locos!

More on Locos in a minute. For now, let me first explain a little bit about how the tours are arranged. Some kind of transportation is required to get you to the small port of Caleta Los Choros, about 120 km north of La Serena. There, local fishermen in Los Choros ferry tourists out from the port, cruise around Isla Choros, and then dock at Isla Damas, where people are allowed ashore.

These two steps are usually arranged by a tour company, but after the Jofre tour fell through, we decided to take it upon ourselves. We drove up to Los Choros, including another 20 km on another dirt road. This was a bit of a risk, not just because we hadn't yet fixed the flat tire, but also because it was a Sunday, and things generally shut down on Sundays. But we'd read reports online before we left that people had been able to go out on tours on Sundays, and we were willing to be patient (of course despite our stated patience, we left the hostel before 7am just to make sure that we'd be first in line).

Image hosted by Webshots.com

Loco, you may recall from earlier posts was a delicious shellfish that we had a first taste of in Puerto Natales. It is also a lucrative export, and a sensitive species. Combine these features with the practical Chilean government, and you end up with the following situation (as it was explained to us -- in Spanish that we understood! -- by Fernando, who was helping to secure us a tour boat):

Locos abalone used to be plentiful, but lack of regulation led to overharvesting and low numbers. To combat this, the government imposed strict regulations that limit commercial Locos gathering to 12 days per year. Japanese restaurant importers, who 'don't value money' (according to Fernando), pay a relative fortune for the Locos, so the 12 days of Loco harvesting each year are very, very important to the local fishermen.

As you may have guessed by now, it was during this 12 day stretch that we were in Chile. And during this time, a boat's time is much more well spent ferrying locos and divers gathering locos than tourists. So we were without a boat to take us out to the islands.

So, also, were two other tour groups. Hiring a boat can be quite expensive, so we befriended the tour leaders of the other two groups, hoping we could get on the boat with them, should they succeed in getting a boat.

After about 2 hours of waiting, one of the tour groups gave up. They were en route to somewhere farther in the north. But the other group, led by a very friendly guide named Victor, was hoping to wait out the morning and midday locos hauls and catch a boat in the afternoon.

Image hosted by Webshots.com

Actually, I should be more specific. The whole second group that was not willing to wait. There was one couple that had been with the group that began to get testy and eventually demanded to be returned to La Serena. Clearly they did not make the effort to enjoy the opportunity to see the local economy at work and to get to know the livings of other peoples lives. They just wanted to see some damn penguins, and they'd paid good money for it, so they deserved to.




Care to guess their nationality? Yep. Rude American tourists. Some stereotypes are true.

Anyway, we were enjoying ourselves. Keenly following the fishermen's progress, but enjoying the clearing skies and the company of the other tour group. Around 1:30, we were told that there would be one last boat that might be able to help us, and it would be getting back around 3:00. Filling the vacancies in their group after the departure of the Rude Americans, we joined Victor's group for lunch.

At lunch, we enjoyed some local fish which I've forgotten the name of (but that Victor joked was dolphin), and conversation with people from Israel, France, Colombia, Germany, and Chile. It was awesome.

At 3:00 we returned to the pier, and were given good news. We had a boat!

The day so far:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555609873tqcpCX

Day 15 - roadtrip...

The end of the last post may have been a bit of an oversimplification. The truth is that even after we made it out of Ovalle, we weren't too sure where we were headed. It was after 10 kilometers and some rising tension between the navigator and driver before a road sign confirmed that we were indeed headed in the right direction. What we didn't realize was how long we would be headed in that direction...

Image hosted by Webshots.com

We anticipated about 80 kilometers of smooth driving up the valley to the town of Hurtado, a tough drive up over the mountains for 44 kilometers, and drop down into the gorgeous and green Valley de Elqui. We were getting a bit ahead of ourselves, beacause 80 kilometers takes an awfully long time when you're averaging less than 35 km/hour.

I hope that this does not come across as any kind of griping. Because at the time, we certainly weren't complaing about the drive. It really was quite beautiful. We were seeing the Chilean countryside in a way suitable for portrayal in the richly colored and glossy pages of National Geographic. Small towns, or rather very small villages were 10-20 houses of bright and contrasting colors were perched on the hillsides. On the narrow road, we slowly wound past adobe walls, thatched roofs, large stands of flowering cactus.

Image hosted by Webshots.comImage hosted by Webshots.com

After about 2 hours of this unrelenting beauty, we decided to stretch our legs and have a quick drink. We were beginning to think we were getting too much of a good thing. So we were mistakenly relieved when we arrived at the turnoff toward Vicuña.

Within 20 seconds of turning onto this road, I was thinking it was a bad idea. I'd had a fair amount of experience driving on dirt/gravel roads in Washington, and I've dodged a fair number of potholes driving in San Francisco. But this was hellacious combination of all the bad features of any road I'd driven. For any given stretch, the road was composed of loose gravel, embedded rocks, hard-packed clay, windy turns, steep inclines, or some evil combination thereof.

It's difficult to say if it helped that the views were absolutely stunning. It made the harrowing driving seem worth the effort, but it made staring at the road that much less appealing, and harder to do.

Image hosted by Webshots.com

A few minutes later, we were discussing how it was possible that we were in the most desolate place we'd ever been. The only signs of life were scrub brush and cactus. We'd seen one car in the last hour, which we'd just passed.

As Murphy would have it, right about that time the steering started pulling to the left. A quick stop (doesn't take long to decelerate from our speed of 10 km/h to 0) and a peek out the door confirmed it. We had a flat tire. We were 15 km from the start of the road, and 29 from the end of the road.

Perhaps Peugeot has little faith in tire durability, or maybe there are consumer-friendly rental car requirements in Chile, but either way, we were incredibly lucky that our car was equipped with a full-sized spare tire. Thus, we were, ahem, spared from becoming vulture meat, assuming we could successfully change the tire.

With surprisingly little difficulty (see the pictures for an abbreviated 'How to Change a Tire on a Desert Mountain Road'), we got the tire changed, and we were on our way. Our very, very, very cautious way.

Image hosted by Webshots.comImage hosted by Webshots.comImage hosted by Webshots.com

I'm quite happy to report that, aside from some very grimy palms (Julie -- wisely -- did not want to waste our remaining water on cleaing wheel grime off my hands), the rest of the drive provided no further physical discomfort.

Herds of goats and then more pisco grapevines welcomed us down the valley into Vicuña, just as the sun was falling behind the mountains. We scrapped our plans to stop at one of the mountaintop observatories and made our way to La Serena.

Image hosted by Webshots.comImage hosted by Webshots.com

Fortunately, "Hostel Jofre" (the sign on the front door includes the quotes) had not given our very small room to anyone else, and we were able to check in. Payment was another issue, though, as we were repeatedly denied cash from the nearby ATMs. Nearing the end of our emotional ropes, we tried one last ATM after returning to the hostel to ask for help. Those bound for La Serena take note: the ScotiaBank ATM is often the only cajero automatico that will serve foreign customers.

We wolfed down some long overdue food, giant and delicious sandwiches from Café Colonial, hiked back to our room at the hostel, and collapsed for a night of sleep.

The whole drive (buckle up!):
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555612368DKSdKq?start=12

Wednesday, November 15, 2006

Day 15 - Roadtrip!

Up to this point on the trip, there had been a relatively packed schedule. Certainly not consistent activities from day to day, but consistently busy, whether catching buses, hiking, whatever. So there was a fair amount of mental adjustment (as well as the obvious repacking for warmer weather) when we got ready to head out for our northern roadtrip. Aside from having places to stay booked for the first two nights, there was nothing solid. And that kind of freedom is a different kind of vacation altogether.

Before we actually got out the door on that vacation, though, Paul and Curtis returned to Pablo's apartment. They'd just come in on a bus, back from the mid-south, Puerto Montt and Chiloe. Aside from a few weather problems, it sounded like they'd had a great time. It was good to hear that they'd had such a good time, as we prepared to hit the road again.

I ate a bowl of Cookie Crisp with Loncho Leche (Chilean refrigerate-after-opening milk that comes in a cardboard carton) for breakfast, fueling up for the drive.

The plan in general was to drive north on Ruta 5, the Panamerican highway, and to spend the night in La Serena. Easy enough, because of our alternate route in the car the night before, we knew where we needed to get to leave town.

No troubles, we were on the highway by 9:30.

On the four-lane divided highway, we were making good progress. And for those of us used to driving all distances in miles, driving distances measured in kilometers is a snap. They pass by so much faster! Why would you want to drive 60 mph when you could be driving 100 km/h? This alone justifies a switch to the metric system if you ask me.

The tolls on the highway were pretty hefty. For about 3 hours of northerly driving, I think we paid close to 7,000 pesos (~$14US). Not cheap, but this did include an amazing tunnel through a hill that brought us out to near to the coast.

Good for driving, but bad for views, it was a fairly overcast day.

After consultation of the Lonely Planet guidebook, we came up with a plan. Los Vilos, being one of the larger towns between Santiago and La Serena, and almost exactly halfway between the two, was chosen as a lunch stop. We saw about 50 restaurants in Los Vilos, roughly one for every person we saw in the town. Apparently over the summer it is a fairly busy working-class Chilean resort town, but at noon on an overcast spring Friday, there was an almost eery lack of people.

Nonetheless, we parked the car and went looking for an agreeable restaurant. I'm a little wary of eating at empty (or nearly) restaurants under any circumstances, let alone when they are empty seafood restaurants. A crowd of people can legitimitize an otherwise slightly dingy restaurant.

We ended up choosing one that at least had a very similar name as one remarked upon in the guidebook (Restaurant de los Pescadoras in the Caleta San Pedro). It overlooked the harbor where the fisherman tied off, or pulled in their colorfully painted wooden fishing boats (one was for sale if anyone's looking for a career change).
We ordered the waitress-recommended Lenguado a la plancha, a grilled whitefish that was quite salty in a good way, and a ceviche that was quite lemony in maybe not as good of a way. Also, buoyed by our experience with Locos (abalones) in the south, we ordered a Locos y Queso Empanada. It, too, was quite delicious, but suffered a bit of the too-much-fried-flavor that you can get in a cheap Indian samosa.

All in all it was fantastic, though, overlooking the boats that had earlier in the day been catching the fish we were eating. After lunch we took a stroll through the actual fish market and talked to one of the fishmongers for a bit, checking out a few beautiful Barracuda and other fish whose names now escape me.

Los Vilos pictures
Image hosted by Webshots.com

Perhaps emboldened by our full bellies, shortly after lunch, we decided to take the scenic route. Now, really, the whole drive had been pretty scenic, but Lonely Planet suggested a loop which would bring us up one scenic pisco valley (from Ovalle toward Hurtado), and then over a backroad to Vicuña, the main city in the Valle de Elqui, a valley known for its scenic vineyards (which supply grapes to make the brandy-like pisco).

It's always much more interesting to avoid major highways. Within 5 minutes of pulling off the Panamerican Highway, we were winding down a dirt sideroad toward a church, which had been advertised with an abnormally large sign. La iglesia de Barraza was where we were headed. Pulling into the town was like pulling onto the set of Desperado, or Zorro, or any other movie that features a half-abandoned, all-old pueblo in the desert.

Image hosted by Webshots.comImage hosted by Webshots.comImage hosted by Webshots.com

Mustering enough courage to get out of the car, we strolled around a little and took a look inside the one shop (a giftshop near the church) that seemed open. We were quite surprised to end up conversing for a short while with a young bus driver, who led tours senior citizens from La Serena on tours of the small town Barraza. As described by the bus driver, Barraza was 'a special place', with the church first constructed around 1650 (give or take?). The whole place certainly did seem like a step back in time.

Another 40 km or so brought us into Ovalle, a surprisingly large (~200,000 people), and not-too-surprisingly disorganized agricultural city.

Image hosted by Webshots.com

We didn't really do anything there except for get disoriented and lost.

After getting back on track thanks to the instructions of a kind woman, we were at least headed toward Hurtado, driving up a beautiful valley, with modest country homes.

Image hosted by Webshots.com

More on the way...

Day 14 - Strait to Santiago

One of the big accomplishments of the conversation the previous evening had been to arrange transportation to the airport. José Miguel, being connected in the Punta Arenas tourism world, scheduled a cab for us at noon the next day.

Knowing that that airport transportation was under control, we slept in a bit the next morning. We got up, showered, enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, with CNN International playing on the TV in the background -- just one example of the numerous little steps our hosts had taken to make us feel comfortable and welcome.

So we strolled east one block, and then down the Avenida Cristobal Colón toward the fabled treacherous waters of the Strait of Magellan. Anyone with a passing interest in history could tell you that the water and land near Punta Arenas is notorious. Quick direct translations of a few nearby sites will give you the same idea: Land of the fire (Tierra del Fuego), Port Famine (Puerto Hambre), Sound of Last Hope (Seno Ultima Esperanza). But on the late spring day that we were there, the sun was shining, and the water was like glass.

So we walked right up, reached our hands off the end of the continent, and dipped them into the Strait. (To give credit where due, we got the idea from Becky). We also paused to enjoy the weathered playground at the end of the boulevard, and a number of the monuments honoring various people who had passed through, facing weather far worse than we saw.

Image hosted by Webshots.com Image hosted by Webshots.com
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555604843UMWWgo

Other than that, it was a relatively uneventful day of travel. The cab to the airport showed up at noon exactly. I mean 12:00 to the second. For all the talk about Chileans having a different interpretation of punctuality...

With the sunny and clear skies, we had spectacular views from the plane. Similar glaciers that looked mammothly static from the ground took on new, dynamic characteristics when viewed from above, where the debris that they had been grinding off mountainsides was striped along their axis of motion.

Pictures from the plane (http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555615797BboAMv)

At Santiago, we picked up the rental car. Budget Rent-A-Car operates in a very similar manner in Chile as it does here. Which was good, because even with a couple weeks of exercise, our Spanish skills could not keep pace with the agent that was helping us.

Our trusty steed for the next few days was to be a 5 speed Peugeot 206. While the French supermini was cute, we couldn't even fit half of our baggage in the trunk. It's no wonder roadtrips are less common in Europe...

Only a few wrong turns later -- always listen to your navigator -- and we were back at Pablo's apartment.

We met up with Morgan to share one last bottle of Chilean wine before she flew back, and then called it a night.
Image hosted by Webshots.com

Tuesday, November 14, 2006

Day 13 -Penguins are real! (updated)

Image hosted by Webshots.com

Departing again from Erratic Rock II on a 7:00 bus meant another early start. Luckily, the TV alarm clock worked well again, and we were able to catch our bus after another nice breakfast (prepared and delivered the night before by Marcela, the owner of the hostel).

We were also lucky, that our laundry was, uh, done. Having brought nothing more to the south than what we were going to take on the trails in Torres del Paine, we were in desparate need of fresh laundry before heading back to Punta Arenas. As luck would have it, we found out that Isabel, a friend of Marcela's would do our laundry overnight for us. Although we'd planned on finding a laundromat and doing it ourselves, it was really hard to argue with the convenience of the deal, even if the price was a bit high. Maybe we should have argued a bit.

It became clear after agreeing to have her do the laundry that Isabel did not believe in using dryers. Not really a big deal, but our laundry was well short of dry when it was delivered at 6:30 the next morning. Even worse, as we donned our clothes, the stale reek of cigarette smoke became immediately apparent. Still, better damp and smokified than stinking like 3 days of hard hiking (at least I kept telling myself that).

After arriving in Punta Arenas around 11 (Bus Sur on the return trip also), we set out to find a place to stay for the night. We were lucky that Julie´s steel-trap memory led us to the ¨Downtown Hostel¨, about 8 blocks from downtown. We were even luckier that they had a vacancy in the overflow section, given that the town was packed with the binational youth games, essentially an olympics for the youth of Argentina and Chile. The overflow section was actually the son´s room in the owner´s house, now that he´d left for college. It was great, and we got some friendly advice from Sonia, and later from her husband, Jose Miguel on trying to make it to see the nearby penguin colonies.

I say trying to make it, because due to the liveliness of the town with all of the extra visitors around, the boat cruise to the Isla Magdalena was booked ´super full´. So we bought bus tickets for the 4:00 departure to the Seno Otway penguin colony (a significantly smaller, privately owned penguin reserve about an hour north of Punta Arenas), and went to get some lunch.

Bad news...
Our internet store is closing for the evening, so you´ll be left in suspense.


Lunch was relatively simple. A few empanadas from a fairly tourist-friendly place in Punta Arenas (Fabrica was its name). These were again the slightly more healthy and much more delicious baked variety of empanada (horneado), which seemed to be favored in the south over the fried variety (frito) more commonly found in the north.

After lunch we went to conduct the usual important business on the internet, and found a fairly nice looking place to do so. Apparently we were not the only ones who thought it was a nice looking place, as we ran into Morgan sipping a coffee in the back of the cafe. Apparently she had seen us boarding the bus to leave Torres del Paine the day before, also. It was quite a coincidence running into her again, though, and soon Becky and Terri came back from the errands that they had been running also. After a little more discussion (including about the stellar election results!), and they went to get some lunch also, but not before determining that we'd be seeing them again out at Seno Otway.

We'd seen mention of the Sent Otway tours in a couple of guidebooks, and they seemed a much more reasonably-priced adventure than the Isla Magdalena tours. The way to keep them more reasonable, though, was to simply buy a bus ticket. Our Bus Fernandez fare was 5,000 pesos, a bargain next to the Turisma Comapa tour that we nearly bought and would have cost 20,000 pesos, with the only added benefit being a small snack on the ride to the colony.

It was a great thing that we just bought the bus ticket. Although the 'bus' was actually one of those improbably narrow Mitsubishi passenger vans, our driver was incredibly friendly, and stopped many times along the road to point out various wildlife (ranging from rabbits, to more ñandús, to the unusual skunk-like chingue). Upon reaching the colony, we had about one and a half hours to stroll along the boardwalk and watch the penguins.

That's right, I said watch the penguins. Yes, we've all seen penguins in the zoo. But never did I imagine that I'd ever see real penguins, living in the wild. It was surreal, seeing these Magellan's Penguins waddling about their business. In surprisingly organized lines, they bobbed along from the water to their burrows. They were unbelievably cute, and amazing to observe up close and with the binoculars (thanks, mom and dad!) preening their feathers and building their nests within their burrows.

Amongst the penguin crowd on the beach, there was a lone Emporer Penguin (you know, the starring breed of March of the Penguins). Much larger, and sporting arguably more formal plumage, he stood on the beach preening and looking a bit morose. What was he doing there?

Magellan's Penguins, we'd been informed, return to the same place every year to mate with the same partner. Even more remarkable, a penguin will become sterile if its one partner should die. Newly armed with that information about Magellan's Penguins, we extrapolated a bit, and guessed that it was the remaining half of a mating pair of Emporers that called Seno Otway home.

The real story, though, is somewhat more exotic, though maybe no less lonely.

We were told that the lone Emporer, looking large and awkwardly out of place, like the first of the penguin classmates to hit puberty, was not actually from Seno Otway. Rather, it had been found out at sea, stranded, and picked up by a well-meaning fisherman. This fisherman, the story goes, then brought the penguin back to one of the places where he knew that penguins lived, Seno Otway.

Los Pingüinos (Joy's favorite Spanish word!):
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555606793oxhKnG

We'd made plans with Morgan, Becky and Terri for dinner at Bar Sotitos, which had been recommended by our friend Mario on the flight to Punta Arenas. "Not really a bar!" he assured us, but "less refined" than many other options in Punta Arenas. Clearly, his definition of 'less refined' was a bit different than ours (i.e. that restaurant was completely out of our league), though, and we opted for a tasty, cheap Italian option, O Solo Mio (also South of the Plaza de Armas). The gnocchi with chunky king crab cream sauce was different and delicious, and the lasagna was bubbly and hearty. mmmm.

After some fun dessert with the girls, they were off to catch another red eye flight. And we were off to the hostel for some entertaining spanish conversation with our hosts before heading to bed. What a day. Penguins!

Sunday, November 12, 2006

Day 12 - Chileno-Torres Del Paine

We got an early start, waking up around 5:30. We were hoping to make it up to the mirador of the Torres shortly after sunrise. We hiked as fast as we could through thick forest, before reaching a boulder field separating us from the lookout. Navigating and climbing up and between the boulders took nearly an hour, and left us tired and sweaty.

Luckly, at the top, we were rewarded with clear weather (apparently somewhat rare -- Morgan and the other girls from UCSF were rewarded with whiteout/blizzard conditions), allowing us to see the spectacular granite towers. I really should say more here about the awesome size and shape of the towers, but I´ll instead again refer you to the pictures:

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555472721cHatVA

From that point, it was all downhill. We hustled back down to camp, took down the tent, and had some breakfast. It was then a 2 hour march down the valley to reach our endpoint of the W, La Hostería Las Torres.

Well, we thought that was our endpoint, but we ended up having to hike another kilometer to the Refugio Las Torres instead, where we caught a shuttle that took us out to the park entrance.

It was there that we caught our bus back to Puerto Natales, ending an unbelivably beautiful time in Torres Del Paine.

We were lucky enough to get a room again at the Erratic Rock II hostel. We grabbed a delicous post-backpacking dinner of pizza and hamburgers, and then crashed in a wonderfully comfortable bed.

Friday, November 10, 2006

Day 11 - Italiano-Chileno (finally updated!)

It dawned on us that it might be helpful to see a bit of a map of where this was all taking place.
A map of Punta Arenas, Puerto Natales and Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine:


A map of the "W" (in red) within the park:



Breaking down camp is never a fun thing to do. But when you've just gotten spectacular views on a dayhike and you know that there are plenty more to come as soon as you get moving again, at least there is a good motivation to do so.

More to come...
So, with the sun still climbing over the mountainside, we took down the tent, jammed everything in our packs, and hit the trail again. Our plan was to push on to Refugio Los Cuernos for a big breakfast stop. We wanted to hold off, because we had a lot of ground to cover for the day, and the refugios are a source of free hot water (perfect for making instant oatmeal and coffee, for instance).

As we got out of the Italiano trees, we were again stunned by the beauty and color surrounding us on all sides. Bluish-gray Lago Nordenskjold on our right, dense green hills across the lake, and some brilliantly red-orange flowers that were in full bloom on many of the bushes lining the trails. We were also again stunned by the tangible power of the wind, as it pushed us around on (and a couple times off) the trail.

Although the CONAF map listed the time as 2.5 hours between Italiano and Cuernos, we covered it in exactly 2 hours. This seemed to be a bit of a trend during our hiking times, not because we were moving particularly fast, but more because we were moving quite steadily, plodding up and down the shale scrapple inclines, stomping across the trickling stram bed, and forging through the high (but still colorful) bushes. The ol´Tortoise And The Hare effect, in an amazing environment.

Anyway, after the two hours of hiking, our simple breakfast turned into The Best Instant Oatmeal Ever, paired with The Most Delicious Hot Cocoa Ever. We´d been famished, but were soon (too?) full. Backpack hip-belts do not really comfortably fit over full bellies.

Pictures:

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555473996ONnqoF


Stepping up to the line of scrimmage with just 4 hours of hiking left to do to get to La Hosteria Las Torres, we called an audible. We were going to push on to Campamento Chileno, another hour closer to our goal for the next day, the Mirador Las Torres. It was perhaps a bit foolish, but we were full of endorphines and Maple Brown Sugar flavoring.

In every other account we´d seen of the W, the four hours between Cuernos and Hostería Las Torres gets very little attention. We feel that this leg has been snubbed. The scenery remains gorgeous (though perhaps nothing particularly novel by this point). You get to cover noticable distance, as you round a mountain to approach a new valley. And you pass through a variety of different environments (boulder-laden streams, high mountain brush, more crumbly rock inclines, boggy marshland). All in all, spectacular, and very sparsely populated by other hikers.

The leg that should perhaps receive more attention in the guide books is the Hostería-Chileno leg. We´d decided to do it somewhat on a whim, not entirely informed, due to some ambiguities on the map. By the time we were done, though, we were physically broken.

Looking somewhat closer on the better map, it became clear that we´d gained roughly 600 meters of elevation. Estimaiting a little bit for the short downhill segments (that were devilishly sprinkled in just so they could add more uphill trail), and it can be said that we hiked the elevation equivalent of climbing to the top of Sears Tower, back down to the ground floor, and then to the top again.

To be fair, and say a few nice words, it was beautiful. We were climbing up the vally of the Río Paine, with rough stone cliffs on one side, and loose glacial deposits lining the trail-side. The river was tumbling far below over giant boulders that had rolled down the hill countless years ago.

But in honesty, we weren´t saying any nice words at the time. What words we could hear from each other over the howling wind were not fit for reproduction, even on the lawless wilds of the Internet. Every stop only made it harder to start again, as our muscles tightened up in the cold wind. The trail became nearly all loose stone, with at least a 45 degree incline on either side (leading down to the aforementioned valley several hundred feet below). And for the first time all trip, both Julie and I felt blisters coming on in our boots.

It was only Julie´s robotic instincts and jogging all of the downhills (don´t forget that we were wearing 30-plus pound packs) that brought us to a sign that told us we had 30 minutes of hiking to do. There were literally tears of joy shed (you, the reader, can guess whose they were). We´d thought we had at least an hour remaining.

Shortly after that, we caught sight of the Refugio, nestled amongst some trees on the opposite side of the valley. Our pulses and strides quickened, and before too long we were crossing a rickety bridge over the river.

As a general note of interest, there are many bridges in Torres Del Paine, crossing a variety of streams and rivers. They are all unique. Sometimes each board within a bridge is unique, making the whole bridge seem as though it were constructed by a handful of 10-year-old kids. Sometimes they even have a few broken boards. But they all serve their purpose well. Bottom line, though, is that they work, and this one over the Rio Paine seemed heaven-sent at the time.

We found the most-sheltered spot we could amongst the trees to set up the tent. After hauling up some rocks from the river to hold down the tent stakes, we were convinced that we wouldn´t get blown away in the night.

One hot shower, one alternating hot and freezing cold shower (mine), and some delicious instant mashed potatoes and salame later, and we were ready for bed.

Actually, not quite ready. We decided to celebrate the day by ordering a bottle of wine from the refugio. We enjoyed the warmth from it, and the refugio fireplace before heading back to our windy tent for a night of much-needed sleep.

Pictures:

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555472915xqmuAk

Thursday, November 09, 2006

Day 11 dayhike - Italiano-Mirador Rio Frances

Before we fell asleep the previous night, we´d made a bold decision. Rather than have the second day be fairly light (stopping to camp at Cuernos), we decided to tack on an extra 4 hours of hiking to try to shorten the time in the park, and have an extra day in Punta Arenas. This meant that we´d be doing a day hike up the middle of the W, then back to Italiano and east to Refugio Las Torres.

When we woke up, and rolled out of our sleeping bags, we weren´t sure that was such a good idea. Stiff backs, sore legs, feet still a bit tired. But we downed some water and a granola bar, and started uphill toward a mirador roughly 2/3 of the way to Campamento Britanico. In hindsight, this may have been my favorite hike in the park.

The hike goes fairly steeply up the valley of the Rio Frances. The distance we covered was split fairly evenly between packed forest dirt/roots, loose gravel stream beds, and rocky boulder navigating. After a few minutes we began to be able to see the sights. Down and to the left was the river. Up and to the left was a glacial ice bed perched on top of dark mountains. Over the shoulder to the left was Lago Nordskroldkjflivlk (spelling?) Nordenskjold and a view of the opposite shore (roughly where we´d been driving in the bus the day before). Up and to the right were first the beautiful two-toned Cuernos (I was informed by Julie that the two tones arise from the volcanic composition of the bottom half, and the sedimentary composition of the top) and later the west side of the Torres del Paine (awesome).

With just light dayhike material, we made it up to the lookout point in under an hour, while the sun was still climbing over the hillside. Admiring the view for a few minutes, and taking a few snapshots at the same time, we were there long enough to first hear and then see a large chunk of snow and ice start an avalanche down the icy mountainside. Pretty powerful.

With our hunger growing, though, and knowing that we had a lot of hiking in front of us, we started back down the hill to break camp and get moving. I´ll not be forgetting the views anytime soon.

Pictures up now:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555452286ynMuKZ

Wednesday, November 08, 2006

Day 10 (more) - Beginning the W at Pehoe

Consulting Bill and the map, we`d come up with what we thought was a fairly comprehensive, but doable trip within the park. The plan was to start at Refugio Pehoe, and by doing a handful of day hikes, we´d hit all points of the W, ending with an exit from Hosterìa Las Torres.

After reconfiguring for dayhike lightness and speed, we dropped what was left of our packs on the porch outside Refugio Pehoe. While we may have left them a little bit longer than most, we found that at refugios throughout the park, people routinely leave their packs. Our goal was to buck the wind and to get up to see Glacier Grey, a estimated 2 hours up from Pehoe.

Once among some trees, the wind was much less of an issue, and we found ourselves getting some sun. The lack of ozone (thanks fossil fuels!) makes for some powerful sun, so we were quickly stripping off layers and reapplying sunscreen. Without our full packs, we were making very good time, and before too long we had our first view of glacial icebergs on Lago Grey.

Lago Grey is not nearly so brilliantly blue as Lago Pehoe, but the color was certainly unique, and the winterfresh-blue icebergs were breathtaking in contrast. A few more windy hills, gusts of wind, and mistakes following the main trail (in general, trails will diverge frequently, but *usally* meet up again) and we were treated with a view overlooking the north end of Lago Grey. Wow, I thought, the sun really is playing interestingly with the colors of the lake up there.

Julie, though, having some glacial experience, pointed out that the interesting colors and textures was the glacier. In a few more steps, we could see where the water met the ice. It´s just as jagged, monstrous, and blue as any craggly glacier I´ve seen depicted in any movie. Hopefully the pictures do it some justice...

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555434358AHAZGR

We`d been hoping for a nice lunch break overlooking the glacier, but the wind was too much. After pausing for a few pictures at the mirador overlooking the glacier (a rocky point to the left of the trail), we started to head down the hill. An aside of possible interest to others: by thirdhand information, the mirador that is roughly halfway up to the Refugio Grey offers the best look at the glacier until the refugio itself.

Salame, swiss cheese, pita bread, peanuts and raisins. A classic trail lunch powered us up for the downhill jet. Again, we surprised ourselves by how quick we covered ground. The downhill views were just as spectacular, looking out over Lago Pehoe. Although we were still being blown around a bit, the sun was shining. We counted ourselves lucky everytime a few raindrops would hit us but amount to nothing more...

We got back to the refugio at Pehoe and geared up for the actual hiking. We´d not done a full-trip since the Trinity Alps in August, and we already had a few kilometers under our belts for the day, so we weren´t too sure how well we´d fare. But our goal for the evening was Campamento Italiano, supposedly 2 1/2 hours away. Sun was shining, wind was blowing, and feet were hurting. Oh, and the INCREDIBLY HUGE and stark peaks of the Cuernos and yes, Las Torres were visible nearly the whole time. The latter was especially exciting, after hearing how Morgan, Becky, and Terri had seen nothing but snow and rain of the Torres after completing a grueling day hike just the day before. As the trail slowly passed beneath our feet, we were again thankful for the great weather we were having.

Being thankful won´t stop you from being tired, though, and we were more than ready for a rest by the time we reached our destination.

In addition to the great views we´d been getting, Italiano was immediately preceded by a couple-friendly bridge (no more than two at a time!). We found a fairly sheltered spot for the tent among the trees. Relative to Pehoe, the campground is very sheltered, with tall (God, I´m blanking on the name right now, but it includes an ñ) trees bending in the wind and dispersing its force. Despite this, we were still very glad to know that the tent we´d borrowed (thanks Ethan and Margie!) was anchored at six major points, and had a fairly low profile. There would be no gusts of wind bringing the tent walls down on us.

Italiano is one of the free campgrounds in the park, so we splurged for dinner. Big time. Chicken flavored ramen.

To give you some idea of the price inflation near the park, we paid nearly $.60 cents per ramen brick in Puerto Natales, still a bargain compared with the $4 (regular-sized) chocolate bar at the refugio store in the park.

Anyway, the ramen was sooooo good. Seriously. We discussed a bit how it had been a few years since either one of us had eaten any ramen, but I doubt it was this long absence from our menus that made it so delicious. Served with some peanuts on the side for protein, accompanied by some delicious pink lemonade crystal light, and followed by a delicious dessert of mostly crushed and partially stale sugar cookies it was a we-deserved feast.

We were drained from a long day of riding, hiking, and packing. So, despite the gusting wind tearing through the trees (more than audible despite using earplugs -- which we recommend packing for a number of reasons), we hit the hay around 10pm. In contrast to our fears about waking up freezing cold, or having to sleep in every layer we´d brought, our thermarests and sleeping bags (one of each again borrowed from Ethan and Margie, but available for rent at refugios also) kept us plenty warm. Too warm, really.

Pics from the Pehoe-Italiano leg:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555434068OEWYTW


But one incredible day was over (great places, people, and weather), and we were excited for the next...

Distance hiked: 21 km (13 miles)
Time hiked: 5 hours
Injuries sustained: sore feet

Day 10 - To Torres del Paine!

At this point, many of you may be wondering why all the writing? Yes, it takes a lot of typing, and a few thousand Chilean pesos spent at internet cafès to keep this updated, but in addition to keeping everyone informed about our well-being, we wanted to have a full log of the trip for our own keeping. So, apologies for any wordiness or esoteric details...but on with the show.

For the last week, we´ve been going without a proper alarm clock. And since my phone battery finally died, we had to rely on some tricky TV programming to get an alarm set that would go off to get this day started.

Although really, we were both so excited that we were up before the alarm. With the bus scheduled to pick us up at 7am to head into the park, we got an early start and did some last minute repacking of our packs.

The `hostel` (not really a hostel if we have our own bedroom and bathroom is it?)that we stayed at provided breakfast as part of the deal, so we were sure to have some full bellies when we set out. Omelettes, cereal, yogurt, bread, jam, and Nescafe con leche (Nestle has done an amazing job convincing nearly all of Chile that Nescafe is superior to regular coffee).

The Via Paine bus (round trip fare 7500 Chilean Pesos each for anyone interested in planning) picked us up at our door at about 7:20. Overnight it had rained (a lot), which, we were assured, was an improvement over the previous windstorms that had knocked out the satellite uplink for the internet for the entire town. Coupled with the `do you have enough gear?` comments of nearly everyone we talked to before the trip, we had our doubts about how well we would be able to handle the trip. One of the few positive voices immediately prior to heading out was Bill, a very helpful and friendly former Oregonian who works at (owns?) the hostel/store (Erratic Rock I)that rented us the stove and gloves.

Anyway, it was still raining and blowing hard when we got on the bus to start the roughly 2 hour ride to the entrance of Parque Nacionlal Torres del Paine. And it continued raining and blowing hard for at least the first hour of the trip, after which it at least became sporadic. On the plus side, we were treated to some amazing rainbows (Julie is working on uploading the pictures as I type this).

After a stop at a remote gift shop that must have some amazing commission deal cut with all of the bus lines that ferry passengers between Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine, we began to be treated to some mountain scenery. Absolutely amazing.

We were also treated to a remarkable display of wildlife. The guidebooks had mentioned a few animals to keep a look out for, but thus far, we´d really only seen Sheep and their baby lambs, and cows with their calves (all very cute, but not very wild). Over the last hour, among others, we saw Ñandùs (a type of patagonian ostrich), many herds of guanacos (best thought of a cross between a deer and a llama), and huge condòrs. Much more than we´d been expecting.

It is also worth noting that I edged out Julie in the spot the wildlife game...

Pictures at:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555431306ngIQEq

I may as well just say now that although we took a lot of pictures, no amount of megapixels of resolution can possibly convey what we experienced. The whole park was absolutely stunning.

At Laguna Amarga, the bus stopped to let us all pay the requisite park entrance fee (and to see the peaks from a distance!). Some passengers exited there, to catch a shuttle to the East end of the ´W`, but we were starting things from the opposite direction. The bus then traveled more or less east-to-west to Pudeto, an outpost on Lago Pehoe (say `pay-oh-ay`). As we pulled up, a few people waved in our direction. Lo and behold, it was Morgan, Becky, and Terri, from UCSF. We´d known that they were heading to Torres del Paine also, but we were pretty sure our plans were non-overlapping. It was a pleasant surprise that they were not. So we were reunited at Lago Pehoe, a glacial lake with an amazing sky blue color.

Laguna Amarga to Pehoe:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555433075zirZGU

But of more immediate concern when we stepped off the bus was the whipping winds. Yeouch! Estimated gusts of 80 km/h (50 mph) were picking up the gravelly sand off the beach and pelting all of the newcomers. Rather than wait the one hour that we had to wait for the catamaran ferry to head to the trailhead, we took the quick hike to a waterfall nearby. During that time, we met Lynn (spelling?), who, after quitting her job in Chicago, has spent the last 6 months learning spanish and traveling in South America. wow.

Wow also for the waterfalls, and the view of the parks famous peaks that we were given at the lookout point. We were literally blown away.

No, I mean that. As we were standing up to have our picture taken, a gust of wind knocked all three of us over. Haunting memories of sleeping in a wind battered tent were coming back to me...

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555433760TDQhxl

We got on the catamaran with no difficulty and set out for the opposite shore. Despite the wind, whitecaps, and clouds in a few different directions, the crew was completely unfazed. Nescafè or hot cocoa were available for the passengers to warm the chilled bones that had been out in the wind.

Still, no amount of wind or could dampen the mood after seeing the amazing views laid out over the sky blue waters(though a few waves splashing over the bow did dampen us).

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555433764OGHYHs

As we made landfall around 1:00pm, we were anxious to get the hiking started.

Sunday, November 05, 2006

Day 9- Vamos al sur (updated)

We got a mighty early start this morning. The shuttle picked us up at the apartment at 6, and we spent the next hour or so traversing the streets of Santiago to pick up another passenger before heading to the airport.

The Santiago airport was again very impressive. Analogous to the subway system here and at home, it was much cleaner, friendlier, and more efficient. The only downfall was that we had an 'early' Sunday flight, so Dunkin Donuts wasn´t open when we first arrived (although the music and sunglasses stores were...)

On the four hour flight (including a stop-over in Puerto Montt), we were given complimentary breakfast and lunch. LANChile should operate in the US, we´d fly them everytime.

On the second half of the flight, we chatted with the man sitting next to us, who was a resident of Punta Arenas and gave us great advice on restaurants and hostels for during our stay. More importantly, he gave us his contact information and told us to call for any reason during our time here (just in case!).

We then checked our email and such in an internet cafe in Punta arenas. Within the first 10 minutes of our time in Punta arenas, we experienced extreme winds, hail, rain, and bright sunshine. They told us to expect all four seasons in one day- and boy were they right!

After checking our email we hopped on Bus Sur to head to Puerto Natales for the night. On the way we traveled along the Magellan Strait, where most of the scenery was windblown from the weather. As we got further along, however, the landscape became much more interesting, and we were fortunate enough to see baby lambs, cows and horses, nandus (which are basically ostriches), and pink flamingos (which are actually naturally found in Chile!).

When we arrived in Puerto Natales, we checked into our hostel, which was fantastic. We had a really nice room, and the owners were really sweet. After dropping off our things, we head out into town, rented a stove and gloves for the trek, ate some dinner and went back to rest up for the big adventures to come.

A little bit more about dinner... We ate at a restaurant recommended by Bill, Picador de Carlitos. Being as it is still the season for Centolla (king crab), we followed the advice of the waitress and ordered a king crab plate ´con otros mariscos´. We weren´t exactly sure what types of seafood that meant, but decided to give it a shot anyway. Since we are only very recent seafood converts, we were a little hesitant, but found the king crab to be delicious, and the mysterious `locos´ to be particularly delicious. The waitress could not translate though, and Bill only could guess at what they were. Later, seeing a sign for another restaurant that displayed both the spanish and english words for some dishes did we discover that they were (likely) abalone. Highly recommended.

A few pictures from Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555431301goEkUb

Saturday, November 04, 2006

Day 8 - Como agua para chocolate!

Today we woke up and spent the morning packing and getting ready to fly down south for our flight.

We then head out around 11 am and went to the Bellavista neighborhood once again. There, we wandered around the artisan shops for about two hours, and went to another restaurant recommended by the Santiago Bizarro book (because Ocean Pacific turned out to be muy deliciouso!). This restaurant, "Como agua para chocolate," was supposed to be very romantic. And, it was! We sat next to a lovely fountain, (although we did have the option of having a bed for a table).

Given that we had seafood yesterday and that we probably will be eating down south, we opted for a delicious cut of beef. It was very tasty, but the presentation was the highlight. Served on a bed of chopped green beans and zucchini, the bacon-wrapped filet had a delicious pepper sauce with spaghetti noodles sticking out of the top for a touch of fun. We decided to get dessert (because how can you not get dessert when chocolate is in the name of the restaurant?). We almost ordered shrimp fondue, but luckily realized last minute that we had made a mistake and managed to get chocolate fondue with frutas (spanish is hard!). Highly recommended.

After lunch our bellies were once again too full, so we spent some time walking around our neighborhood before heading home. When we returned we finished up some organizing and packing, watched the movie "sleepover" in english (but with spanish subtitles), and succeeded in calling our hotel in Puerto Natales after many, many failed attempts. If you thought long distance plans were confusing in the states...

Here are some pictures from lunch:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555170599QJdOoD?start=48

Tomorrow morning we set off for Punta Arenas (8:30 am LAN chile flight 283), and from there on to Puerto Natales by bus. The next morning we enter Torres del Paine, where we will be backpacking for a few days. We may be able to update the blog tomorrow in Puerto Natales, but then will not be able to until we are back in civilization.

¡Adios!

Day 7- Free time

After trips back and forth across the city, trying to meet up with the elementary school teaching group (long story, involving some combination of Saturday Night Fever-style dance floors, cell phones, time zones and plastic conical tubes -- really not worth going into detail here), our free day started around noon.

We hung around the apartment for a while, leisurely eating some breakfast, and waiting while some other people brought over bags to leave for a few days while they went off on adventures. Following the end of the conference, our once tight group bound to Santiago has exploded, sending UCSF students and faculty to various parts of Chile.

Hoping to get to see a bit more of Santiago, we went out to visit El Mercado Central, a little bit north and east of downtown. We covered some new ground on the Metro, and got off at Plaza de Armas, where we'd had coffee 6 days ago. This time, though, we strolled around a little bit more, looking at some of the nice artwork that was for sale, and wondering how we'd be able to get home a nice oil on canvas work (deciding that there weren't really any better options than shipping it, we decided against buying anything).

Arriving at the Market, we were greeted by dingy stalls, smelly cheeses, and knockoff shoe stands. Turns out we were at the wrong market.

Crossing the river and walking a few blocks more, we found the right market. There, things were much nicer, and there were many Chilean fish options. Not too surprisingly, given the coastline, Chile has a lot of seafood. There were some great looking fish that we'd not seen whole before. Corvina, reineta, salmon (aquaculture of which is a very important resource here), congrio (the same that we'd had at Galindo), and the generic 'pescado'. The fish was certainly the focal point of the market, with wholesale being conducted in the outer perimeter, and retail at nice looking restaurants in the interior. Although raw fish doesn't usually stimulate your appetite, we were getting a bit hungry.

We had picked out our dinner restaurant from a book called 'Santiago Bizarro'. Written in spanish, it describes a number of the bizarre places in Santiago. We'd been a bit underwhelmed by the club from the previous night, which was also found in the book, and were doubting our reading comprehension a bit. This place (Ocean Pacific's) blew away any description that can be written.

The whole huge restaurant had various nautical themes. A submarine room, a belly-of-the-whale room, a pirate room, etc. It was hysterical, and really fun. I'm really not sure how best to convey the feeling of this place, so I will refer you to the pictures (uploaded to the Santiago section), saving myself many thousands of words.

As impressive as the decor was, the food was even better. Although we were some of the only people there (who but a pair of gringos would eat dinner at 6pm?), everything was incredible, and still pretty reasonable. The meal: Ensalada Griega, a greater-than-the-sum-of-its-parts mixture of corn, onions, olive oil, olives, tomatoes and feta-like cheese. Crema de Espinica, literally creamed spinach, but in reality more like cheesy goodness with spinach mixed in. Corvina Relleno Austral, a piece of fish with a ham and cheese secured with a leek (clearly better tasted than written). And of course the house white wine was fantastic.

We then went home to see our friends off. Brad, Joy, Megan, Jenny, and Niels were flying to Puerto Montt to embark on a bike trip. Paul, Mark, and Curtis were going to catch a bus toward the Lakes district. Buen viaje!

I must repeat. Check out the pictures of Ocean Pacific's.
http://community.webshots.com/album/555170599QJdOoD?start=36

Ciao!

Thursday, November 02, 2006

Day 6- Who wants to be a billionaire? (me)

Thursday. The last day of the symposium in Santiago.

Today we were at Universidad Catolico for a half-day of cancer talks. Desfortudamente, el primero presentacion fue en espanol. But the rest of the talks were great, and then we again had the chance to stroll around some artisan shops at the base of the Cerro Santa Lucia (which you may remember from day one).

We hopped on the trusty bus from yesterday (no pushing required this time) and headed out to Pablo's house for an afternoon bbq. To be clear, Pablo is the owner of the apartment that we're staying in , the organizer of this trip/conference, and the co-founder of Chiron (cha-ching!).

His house was ridiculous. Nine acres outside of Sanitago, with llamas, baby alpacas, fancy pheasants, peacocks, y mucho, mucho mas. Naturally, he hosted a very nice lunch, with some tremendous cuts of meat (estimated 20 pounds each?) and Chilean wine.

After lunch, it was time for the 2nd annual Norteamercano vs. Sudamericano soccer match. It lasted several hours. Julie was the only girl, and boosted the state of international relations by referring to members of the opposing team as 'la polla' (the classic american chicken taunt) when they refused to challenge her. The game was really fun, and ended up as an everybody-wins tie.

Pablo's daughter rounded out the afternoon by playing us a few numbers from her upcoming album (she is a 'pop-jazz' pianist, now featured on Chilean TV and radio). She has a beautiful rich voice.

Pictures from Pablo's house:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555308974scYJKj

After catching the bus home, we made some pizza with Brad, Joy, and Megan at our apartment.

Pictures of us eating pizza:
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2067288900068603089ArHpDh

We then went out to a discoteca called Tunel with the whole group, and stayed out dancing until 5 am!
http://community.webshots.com/album/555170599QJdOoD?start=24
Pictures from the club:

Day 5- Valpairaso and Vina del Mar

We woke up after a good night sleep and met our private bus to head south to Valpairaso and Vina del Mar. To our surprise, the bus didn't start, and we had to get out and push the bus! Apparently, this was not strange.

We first went to Valpairaso, which is a very hills city (not unlike San Francisco). We went on a private boat tour of the bay, where we were served Pisco sours and Vinas, and catered snacks. Very nice! We then head out to a very nice restaurant for lunch, that was actually associated with the boat tour. After the lovely lunch, we got back in the bus and drove to Pablo Neruda's (Nobel laureate poet) house. His house had gorgeous views of the city, and was a very interesting house in itself. We were not allowed to take pictures though. He had a sink that did not work in his study, a bird in a bubble over his dining room table, and many little nooks and crannys.


Pictures from Valpairaso:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555285440VscYtG

We then got back in the bus and drove down to Vina del Mar. This is basically a resort/beach area. We were allowed to wander around on our own. Nate and I chose to explore all the nice little shops along the boardwalk.


Pictures of Vina del Mar:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/555286911ujipkE

We then head back and went home to have a relaxing night.

Wednesday, November 01, 2006

Day 4- Mas biologia

Apologies to the faithful readers out there. Although we spent more time at home last night than any other night, we didn't have a lot to report. Nonetheless...

Yesterday was the second full day of the symposium. So, we got up early to go to more talks. Again, they were all quite impressive.

Before lunch, Nate and I both presented our posters, answering questions for both UCSF and Chilean students and faculty. Following the afternoon session, we all went outside and had some cervezas and pizza.

In an attempt to stamp down the jetlag for once and all, we decided to head home and have a low key evening.

Monday, October 30, 2006

Day 3 - Science Time

The conference that we're all here to attend started today. And while the seminars were excellent, and the presentations very informative, the most important lesson that we learned today came during the breaks. And that lesson is that Chilean coffee is not nearly as strong as its norteamericano counterpart.

Not to paint too bleak of a picture, though. The talks were really great, as were the posters. And our Chilean hosts have been fanstastic.

After the conference we returned to the apartment before heading out to a guidbook-recommended dinner at one of Pablo Neruda (Nobel laureate poet de Chile)'s old haunts. Galindo was amazing, and any previous concerns about Chilean food that were brought on by other people's comments were put to rest.

All in all, a great day. Time for a good night's sleep now.

More pictures are up, too.

Sunday, October 29, 2006

Second day in Santiago

Fighting the jetlag/pisco induced urge to sleep past 10:30, we got up to a beautiful sunny day. Opening the blinds, we were treated to a postcard-perfect view of the Andes to the east of Santiago. Very, very impressive. Not unlike the days when Mt. Rainier is visible over Seattle, the Andes towered over the eastern skyline of Santiago.

A little over-breakfast planning, and we were off to enjoy the beautiful weather by taking advantage of more of the views that were to be had. With Brad and Joy, we again hopped on the Metro, taking advantage of its even-on-Sunday timeliness, and headed a few kilometers west.

We then walked through the Bellavista neighborhood, which has many restaurantes, street craft vendors, and cafes to the base of the Cerro San Cristobal. There, we conducted our most successful transaction en Espanol to date, buying roundtrip tickets up the Funicular, including zoo admission at the midway point. The Funicular is essentially a SF cable car, differing by the above-ground cable, but sharing the goal of pulling passengers up a very steep incline.

We got off about a third of the way up the hill (hardly a hill, topping off at close to 900 meters), to visit the zoo. While I'm not sure that I really know, the zoo reminded me of what zoos were like 30-50 years ago. It was a bit sad, but still very entertaining, and given the weather, a great time out. The cages were a bit sparse, but the animals were great as always. And there was the added educational bonus of reading the animal names and plaques and attempting to translate them from Spanish.

After a couple hours of lobos marinos, jirafos and osos, we got back on the funicular to ride to the top of the hill. As luck would have it, we ended up in the car that propelled Pope John Paul II up to the top on April 1st, 1987 (or so the plaque said, we think). Atop the hill, there is a beautiful terrace again overlooking the city. Yes, city views seem to be a bit of a theme so far.

We also had the opportunity to sample a few more traditional Chilean treats. An empanada con carne, and mote con huesillo. The former being a fried pastry with meat, olives, onions, and egg. The latter being something that looked awfully scary looking, but tasting quite good (apricot in tea, essentially).

The rest of the day was spent milling about artisan booths, drinking cafe, and later a fantastic dinner at Sebastian's house.

Okay. Tomorrow, the conference begins...

Also: More pictures are up on the same site as yesterday's.

Saturday, October 28, 2006

In Santiago!

After 5 hours of delays and 15 hours in the air, we arrived safely in Santiago. We were greeted by Sebastian (UCSF organizing student) and Pablo (the main Chilean professor). Pablo took us and 3 others to an apartment that he owns in Santiago to stay. We took some much needed showers and a quick nap to start to recover.

The apartment is great. Plenty of room, close to the subway, with beautiful views. Nate and I have our own double room with a private bathroom, with Brad and Joy in another, and Paul in the third available bedroom.

Emboldened by some good map advice from Pablo, we set out with Paul to check out downtown Santiago. The Metro subway is fantastic, and puts the Muni to shame. For about 80 cents US (not too sure because we're still trying to figure out the conversion and exactly what type of ticket we bought), we were downtown in less than 10 minutes.

We hiked up to the top of Santa Lucia park and gardens where there is an old castle (Castillo Hidalgo) that overlooks much of the city. At that point it was still a little overcast, so we couldn't see too much of the Andes in the distance, but it was pretty amazing. Santiago is huge. Pockets of high-rises stretching out for miles, er kilometers.

We then started strolling down the Alameda toward the presidential palace. Upon reaching the main gate to walk in, we ran into Terri another familiar UCSF face. And soon a bunch of other people turned up, so we happened into a nice afternoon strolling around a little more (now with some Chileno hosts as well) before grabbing a nice cafe cortado (half coffee, half cream, plus some sugar) to boost us for the evening.

Now we're back at the apartment fora few minutes, getting ready to head out for dinner. No one eats dinner here before 9:00 apparently, and many of the restaurants are closed through what we would consider dinnertime.

So we're doing well, and excited to see what tomorrow brings.

Pictures of today:
http://community.webshots.com/album/555170599QJdOoD